In the postwar years of the last century, the American film industry began to gain momentum. Dramatic actresses appear on the screen, the theatrical makeup of which complements and enhances the fictional image. Thus, the general public was first introduced to the femme fatale makeup, which is now called smoky eyes.
Content:
- Features and advantages of technology
- Choosing a color palette
- Creating a classic version
- Trends 2019
Features and advantages of technology
The technique assumes a smooth shading of a contrasting color with the addition of auxiliary, lighter transitions, which creates the effect of a "look with a drag".
In the last century, the "smoky eye" resembled a black and white movie: it existed only in black, graphite, gray and silver colors. In the 70s, he again declared himself in the countries of Western Europe and the USA: in the wake of rock and roll and the struggle of women for their rights, a bright, almost war paint, came into fashion. There was one caveat: in the daytime, on the streets of the city, women did not dare to appear in such a theatrical form.
Everything has changed in this century: modern makeup artists have learned to create a haze in a bright, and less saturated range. Some people prefer only light and warm shades and do not use pencils and eyeliners in their work, they choose brown or gray colors.
Manufacturers of branded cosmetics create ready-made palettes for smoky eyes, which eliminate the need for long-term selection of the desired tones. The only thing worth paying attention to is the quality when shading. The product should not crumble and lie on the surface of the skin in separate spots.
Choosing a color palette
Here's a quick overview to help you choose the right eyeshadow palette, taking into account the complementary eye shade and hair color.
Pronounced blue eyes
Base: gray, dark chocolate, white-gold, creamy, pearl.
Contrasting tone: purple, brown. It is necessary for the depth and expressiveness of the look. The most saturated tone is smoothly shaded and the main shades and light highlights begin to play against its background.
Inappropriate: pink, green, blue.
Gray-blue
Steel gray, graphite, silver, steel beige, platinum gray, watery green, copper, golden, caramel.
Contrast: deep blue, orange, purple, brick, crimson, salmon.
Not suitable: blue, green, light pink.
Green-blue
Green-blue "chameleons" with yellowish splashes, each time playing with new colors, depending on the main outfit. When choosing a palette, we advise you to take this feature into account.
Yes: gray, deep blue, purple, light pink, cappuccino, bronze, marsh.
No: burgundy.
Blondes
Yes: pale blue, gray, burgundy, gold.
None: deep purple and dark green, turquoise and deep blue.
Brunettes
Yes: purple, gray, silver.
No: pink, light green, blue.
Brown-haired
Yes: lilac, lavender, pearlescent palette.
No: pink, light green, blue, brown.
Blond
Yes: all shades of gray, silver.
No: burgundy, blue, green.
Leather
Pale skin with a bluish undertone reacts very badly to a palette of warm colors: golden, salmon, emerald and brown are better not to use.
Tanned skin or a natural orange undertone, on the other hand, requires warm, rich hues.
Choosing and using eyeliner correctly
A versatile make-up artist's tool for correcting the shape and size of the eyes.There are times when eyeliner is inappropriate: for example, if there is a feature such as a drooping eyelid or small, deep-set eyes. The thicker the eyeliner line, the smaller the eye appears.
Recommended: black, steel gray, lavender, cappuccino.
Consistency: liquid, gel-like, kayal.
Classic creation process
Basic tools:
- Eyeshadow Palette;
- ink;
- eyeliner or kayal;
- base under the shadow;
- dark liner;
- natural bristle brushes.
Bronze
A fresh novelty for light blond and blondes: the proposed makeup is suitable for a day out, a cocktail party, a romantic walk.
Palette:
- brown eyeliner;
- brown, pearlescent bronze and bronze eyeshadows with glitter, for a highlight you can use a tone called "white gold";
- chocolate wax watercolor.
Step by step execution:
- We prepare the skin, for which we carefully and carefully level the tone, well working out the areas under the eyes, thin blue veins in the corners.
- Correct the shape of the eyebrow and draw it.
- Apply a tonal base, fix with powder.
- To make the contrasting brown tone more expressive, use a brown pencil. Draw lines starting from the outer corner of the upper eyelid eye, moving towards the bridge of the nose. The end of the "arrow" should be slightly raised and directed towards the temple. We connect the upper arrow with the lower one and lightly process the fold of the upper eyelid.
- We shade the pencil so that it is evenly distributed.
- On the outer corner under the eyebrow, apply a shade of shadows "white gold".
- Cover the upper movable eyelid with brown shadows using a small flat brush.
- We work on the outer corner very well, filling in the light areas with the horizontal side of the brush. Shading of the lower eyelid is performed towards the ear. On the upper eyelid, shading should be done so that the pencil backing is not visible.
- Apply a bronze shade with mica with a damp brush.
- The final touch: bronze loose shadows - they are applied with light movements of a wide brush. They will make smoky transitions smoother and more graceful.
- We draw an arrow along the upper row of eyelashes, modifying it with a brown pencil, shading it, achieving smooth lines. We carry out the same actions on the bottom row.
- We paint over the eyelashes in two or three passes, waiting between them for 2-3 minutes, so that the mascara lies in thin layers: this will allow it to not crumble longer and will prevent the effect of glued spider legs.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself with a video tutorial on how to perform brown smoky eyes. It is not suitable for every blue-eyed woman. Ladies whose skin has a warm undertone, and whose eyes are green-blue with yellowish blotches on the iris - can safely start studying the video lesson:
Evening and day makeup: the main differences
Daytime make up is as close to natural as possible. With its help, some imperfections are masked on the face and emphasize natural colors and lines. The palette of daytime cosmetics contains non-contrasting, dull shades.
Day palette: ivory, golden, milky, white, pink, sand, peach.
Simultaneous emphasis on lips and eyes is unacceptable. Freshness and lightness to the face is given by the base, selected one tone lighter than natural.
Only in the evening version, pearlescent and shiny shadows are permissible. For the perfect complexion, the BB texture is no longer enough, you will need a make-up base and concealer.
To make the eyes large and expressive, clearly outline the eyebrows, first giving them as natural a shape as possible. Do not over-blacken them; look for a pencil color close to the tone of your hair.
Evening make-up allows for false eyelashes, arrows made with pencil or eyeliner, a palette for the eyes of bright colors and blush.
Trends 2019
This year, the smoky makeup has changed the image thoroughly: from the dramatic to the romantic and flirtatious.On hearing light cold and warm bronze shades.
Makeup artists-bloggers are happy to share the intricacies of their skill, teaching subscribers the correct sequence and shading secrets, after them we will tell you about three interesting color schemes.
Pink
Light romantic "smoky makeup" in pink shades is one of the main trends of the spring-summer 2019 season.
Contrasting smoky eyes requires a uniform, even tone of the face, otherwise, all small imperfections, spots, capillaries and acne will become very noticeable against its background. To clean the skin of the face and under the eyes, do not use products that contain alcohol.
Pink range:
- light peach;
- wine cherry;
- Ivory.
Total look
In the fashion houses of Western Europe, apart from other delights, there is a style of clothing, sustained in one color. Natural materials, expensive shoes and accessories allowed him to occupy an elite niche.
Perhaps, the repetition of the color of the suit in the make-up will seem impassable and obsolete to someone, but this is not a simple office bow, but a complex and rich smokey. It is he who is able to dilute, at first glance, a conservative image.
The deep blue is the most formal. But a gray-blue smoky will bring a touch of femininity to it. Use a milky or shiny white to create a highlight, depending on the situation.
It is impossible not to notice that the proposed image, kept purely in blue, will suit a deep brown-haired woman (winter color type) or a black woman.
Lavender freckles
Let's talk about the warm autumn and spring color types of appearance, which we paid little attention to, because blue-eyed girls with reddish hair and freckles are more the exception than the rule. In 2019, stylists offered them an amazing party look: a lavender-based smoky.
If for other evening and cocktail transformations we recommended a certain color scheme, contrast and light highlight, then for “warm” girls this summer, professionally shaded lilac will be enough.
And don't hide your freckles under a thick layer of concealer - they look great! Complete your idea with a transparent sheen and blush of a light texture.
We offer a small instruction:
How to avoid common mistakes
Smoky eyes are one of the most difficult makeup techniques. High-quality and correct execution is an overwhelming task for beginners.
Consider the most common mistakes that are common for many women performing this make up on their own.
Blush
They are applied directly to the creamy texture of the foundation, resulting in a shapeless stain. To avoid stains, you need to fix the wet texture with loose powder using a wide brush, and only after that you can apply the blush.
Accents
Most beginners do not know how to place color accents: for example, lighter and shinier shadows appear on the moving eyelid, and darker ones - under the eyebrow. Smoky eyes are characterized by a diametrically opposite arrangement.
Apply matte shadows of a dark shade along the lash line and blend over the entire movable eyelid. Apply matte flesh-colored shadows in the center of the eyelid and above the crease, creating a smooth transition towards the eyebrow. As a result, we get a color gradation from saturated to the lightest tone.
Liner
A mistake typical for any makeup technique: girls initially apply a liner and only then shadows. The steps must be performed in reverse order.
A circular outline of the eye with a liner is also highly undesirable: the look becomes angry, the visual perception of size is distorted. Draw a small arrow along the upper eyelid only.
Lips
Deep tones of "smoky eyes" make the feminine look very expressive. Even the evening version does not imply an additional accent in the form of a bright shade of lipstick.
A calm neutral color will be enough to cover the lips without visually distinguishing them from the general background of the face.
Few options
Use our step-by-step tutorials, practical tips and video compilation to learn how to do the delicate and truly feminine smoky makeup yourself.